The West Coast Trail IntroductionWhen shipping in and out of Juan de Fuca Strait rapidly increased in the mid 1800's and an alarming and costly number of ships were lost, the need for a inland trail was realized. It would take decades, and many more brutal and costly shipwrecks in the waters leading to Juan de Fuca Strait, to finally construct a life saving trail. The West Coast Trail has a wonderfully, horrifically, brutally, and certainly lengthy history.

Hike the West Coast Trail

 Hiking Route West Coast TrailDay 1 Pachena to Darling Hiking Route West Coast TrailDay 2 Darling to Tsusiat Hiking Route West Coast TrailDay 3 Tsusiat to Carmanah Hiking Route West Coast TrailDay 4 Carmanah to Walbran Hiking Route West Coast TrailDay 5 Walbran to Cullite Hiking Route West Coast TrailDay 6 Cullite to Camper Hiking Route West Coast TrailDay 7 Camper to Thrasher West Coast Trail CampsitesMichigan Creek at 12k West Coast Trail CampsitesDarling River at 14k West Coast Trail CampsitesOrange Juice Creek at 15k West Coast Trail CampsitesTsocowis Creek at 16.5k West Coast Trail CampsitesKlanawa River at 23k West Coast Trail CampsitesTsusiat Falls at 25k West Coast Trail CampsitesCribs Creek at 42k West Coast Trail CampsitesCarmanah Creek at 46k West Coast Trail CampsitesBonilla Creek at 48k West Coast Trail CampsitesWalbran Creek at 53k West Coast Trail CampsitesCullite Cove at 58k West Coast Trail CampsitesCamper Bay at 62k Thrasher Cove - West Coast Trail CampsitesThrasher Cove at 70k

The stretch of the Pacific from Vancouver Island to Oregon earned the name Graveyard Of The Pacific because of the shockingly frequent shipwrecks. To get that name. To earn such a horribly poignant name, a stretch of ocean had to have claimed a lot of ships in a small amount of time.

It did. And the reason it did is because of a unique set of circumstances.  In short, if you were to design a part of the world to devour ships. To pull them into an inescapable death. Well, you'd do well to design it very much like Juan de Fuca Strait.

Step 1: have a major port of trade centre itself in a place like Vancouver. Or better yet, create two cities, one like Vancouver, and another like Victoria.

Step 2: have them located at the edge of a relatively unknown continent in the biggest ocean in the world.

Step 3: have these major cities accessed by entering a strait with a fast moving current and brutal weather half of the year.

Step 4: and this is the master stroke.  Have the entrance to the straight be a lee shore with a brutally hostile, rocky shoreline, and as one last brutal stroke of evil.  Make the current in the strait move northward toward the destructive coast.  And make the current move faster as the weather gets worse, which it is a lot.

The Brutal History of Juan de Fuca Strait

Juan de Fuca Strait is all of these.  It is a testament to how wonderful the cities of Vancouver and Victoria are.  Not only did they rise out of such a brutal history of shipwreck disaster.  But more importantly.  More amazingly.  They led to the creation of the West Coast Trail.  This fact may not sink in with suitable gravity with the average person.  But walk the West Coast Trail and it will resonate.  The purpose of the trail sticks in the back of your mind as you hike it.  It has to.  There are shipwrecks at every beach.  This is surely impossible, an exaggeration.  But it's not.

West Coast Trail Shipwrecks

As you walk you are constantly reminded that it's a life saving trail.  But it's too hard.  Even with the deluxe, IKEA looking ladders and bridges it's hard.  How could survivors crawl off the beach and walk this trail.  The sobering answer is simple.  They did.  They had to.  They survived.  They crashed onto Vancouver Island.  These shores.  As their ship was bashed into the rocks, the made their way to the shore.  Some died, some lived.  We have an unbelievably detailed history of who did and didn't.  Then they set off on the Dominion Life Saving Trail.

Valencia Bluffs View of Shipwreck Site

I notice a jagged piece of rusted metal, out of place on the cleanly rounded rocks. I pick it up as I would a McDonald's bag.  It looked like a piece of trash a bit out of place.  I would read later that this beach is strewn with the wreckage of the Uzbekistan.  In April 1943 it was on it's way to Russia.  Everyone survived that wreck.  I look up, still holding the jagged piece of ship.  What a shitty beach.  Rocky, littered with logs.  The Uzbekistan.  Holding a piece of history.  And just laying on the beach.  Is it really part of a shipwreck?  It seems so ordinary.  A rusted triangle of metal, no longer than my arm.  But it's here.  In the middle of nowhere.  Not really though.  Far from anything, but the map says that this is where the Uzbekistan, a WWII cargo ship on its way to Russia met its end.  Disintegrated on this shore in 1943.  The rusted piece of metal seems so much like garbage.  It has no defining look.  It doesn't feel like anything special.  Like a piece of history, like a shipwreck should.  I drop the piece of shipwreck and at the same instant hear it.

Pachena to Darling Map Day 1

The waves crash loud. I hadn't noticed as I considered the piece of wreckage, but the waves are loud.  Loud and relentless.  Looking up, my back at the distant crashing of a waterfall.  I see the open ocean. The deep, ominously pounding waves. I look at the piece of rusted metal more closely. Turning in to see it in different angles. It feels more real now.  As if I could find my way into how this piece of rusted metal came to be here. Sixty years later, rusting on my day one of the West Coast Trail.

The Uzbekistan Shipwreck

The Uzbekistan Shipwreck on the West Coast TrailThe first indication of the horror to come that they had on the Uzbekistan that night was the penetrating horror of mangling metal on the brutal rocky coast that I saw before me now. Not so long ago, I tried to imagine, a massive WWII era ship, in total darkness, lumbering into these rocks.  The crushing sound of mangling metal. The panic. As dawn broke the 50 on board made their way ashore with the help of the low tide. Rescue came for all 50 of the Uzbekistan. But the ship itself was crushed repeatedly until it disintegrated into the rocks forever. Not really forever though. As I looked at the rusted piece of metal with the crushing waves beyond. It came to me in a flash. The importance of this thing in my hand. Like some ultra real museum, the West Coast Trail is a jaw dropping journey through history.

Uzbekistan Shipwreck Photo by Rick James

To pick up a piece of the Uzbekistan, look out on the ocean where 50 people clamored for the shore. This place is amazing. The warmth of excitement came over me. Of knowing that you are in the midst of something real. And as if day one of the West Coast Trail couldn't get any better, it did.

Amazing and Hidden Darling Falls

It's a sound I would come to hear a lot on the West Coast Trail.  But this was the first time I'd heard it.  Loud, rushing water.  I felt tired.  I'd hiked a long way.  I felt like I was grubby.  I had started the trail lots of energy and excitement, but so far the West Coast Trail was a bit tame. I followed the sound of water. It was loud. I could see it came from where a river came out of trees.  A massive, slow moving river, clear, wide, and slow moving, snaked out of the forest.  I followed it into the trees.  The river bed was full of rainforest wreckage.  Massive trees strewn all around as the clear, beautiful emerald water flowed around.  The loud, water crashing sound became louder.  It must be a waterfall, but I couldn't see it.  Then suddenly it came into view. Like a scene out of a movie.  A perfect waterfall.  A perfect pool.

Darling Falls West Coast Trail

Perfectly Wild Darling River

Darling River in this instant became the standard in which I would judge the West Coast Trail forever. So wild.  So unexpected.  So exciting.  As I carefully made my way as close to the waterfall as I could, I couldn't believe how clear the water was.  So impossibly green the rocks at the bottom were.  So clear the water was.  In seconds I dove in.  It was amazing.  The perfect waterfall.  As the wash of the falls pushed me away I fought the current of Darling River as it flowed out of this amazing green pool toward the ocean.  I let the water carry me even as I swam with the river current toward the ocean.

The sun broke through the clouds in one of those bizarre moments of rain and sunshine. I swam with the current as it snaked through a wasteland of enormous logs.  Ducking under a massive tree, rolling onto my back, staring up to the sun surrounded by a small patch of blue sky in an otherwise cloudy sky.  Pushed with the current I watched the trees above move slowly.  Incredibly, the perfect day.  How exciting.  So far the West Coast Trail couldn't be better.  But it seems everything can get better.  Or at least more bizarre, and this moment did.

Perfectly Wild Darling River

The trees above widened and I realized I was passing through the beach and into the ocean. I twisted against the current as Darling River opened up into the ocean.  Moving faster I thought in an instant that I'd be pushed into the ocean, then it hit me.  A huge wave crashed against me. In an instant I wasn't moving either way.  I'd hit the point where Darling River met the ocean waves. Bashing currents and waves made me stumble, feet sinking into the sand and gravel quicksand. I fell forward against the current and with waves crashing over my back and suddenly saw it. The piece of metal. The piece of Uzbekistan that I held a few minutes ago moving amongst the rocks and waves. I suddenly felt cold. The water was freezing despite the warmth of June. I stumbled toward the piece of wreckage pulling it from the waves.  Holding it I suddenly felt some sort of connection. Crawling out of the ocean, looking on the same shore and trees they looked at all those years ago. I felt connected to them. Like the 50 survivors of the Uzbekistan I was crawling out of the ocean. In a surreal moment I picked up the piece of Uzbekistan and held it up to the shoreline. What a place this is. My first day on the trail and I've found a piece of shipwreck and a waterfall.

I stumbled forward, knee deep in the perfectly clear Darling River. I jumped in a few minutes ago next to the waterfall surrounded by trees and cliffs.  Now I was out on the open beach.  Looking left and right I could see for a couple kilometres in both directions. There was no one in sight, just as it would have looked for the survivors of the Uzbekistan. Looking now, I couldn't believe how far I'd moved in the river. There was a ways to go to get to my pack I left where I would spend my first night, at least a five minute walk. Tired and cold now I walked faster. What a crazy place this is, Darling River.  How had I not read about Darling Falls before?  No West Coast Trail books even mention it and only recently have websites mentioned it, but only barely. 

Hidden Shipwrecks Along the West Coast Trail

The shipwrecks I had passed already since the trailhead have very interesting histories. At about 4km into the West Coast Trail from the Pachena trailhead look out to the ocean and you will spot the aptly named Seabird Rocks.  This almost island marks the final resting place of two West Coast Trail shipwrecks. The Alaskan shipwreck lays at the bottom of the ocean about 300 metres to the right of the rocks and the Soquel shipwreck lies under the water just past the rocks.

The Soquel on Seabird Rocks

The Alaskan Shipwreck

The Alaskan Shipwreck - West Coast Trail Graveyard of the PacificThe Alaskan was a small, wooden hulled steamship of 150 tons built in Oregon in 1886.  She was owned by a Vancouver freight company and was enroute to Barkley Sound with 100 tons of box shooks(metal fittings to construct wooden crates). The Alaskan was last seen from Pachena Point apparently unable to round Cape Beale due to high winds she had turned back.  Though distress flares were seen, no one witnessed its destruction and she evidently sunk killing the entire crew of 11.  Three bodies washed ashore with considerable debris on the beaches west of Pachena Point.

The Soquel Shipwreck

The Soquel Shipwreck - West Coast Trail Graveyard of the PacificThe Soquel shipwreck which lies just past the Seabird Rocks was a much larger ship then the Alaskan at 698 tons. She was a four masted schooner built in San Francisco, California in 1902. She was sailing with ballast from Callao, Peru, heading for Port Townsend (near Seattle), when bad weather and high seas carried her far off course. The captains wife and daughter were killed by falling spars as two of the ships masts came crashing down. The next morning daylight revealed the the Soquel on Seabird Rocks and a steam ship with a lifesaving crew from Bamfield was sent to rescue survivors. The single ship was unable to help anyone until another steamer arrived and both ships working together managed to pull 5 people off the reefs before the daylight faded. The next morning calmer seas enable the rescue the remaining survivors as well as the two dead bodies.

The Sarah Shipwreck

The Sarah Shipwreck on the West Coast TrailAt about 7km into the West Coast Trail you will come to the shipwreck of the Sarah hidden under the waves near the shoreline. This three masted barque of 1206 tons, built in Nova Scotia in 1874. This British ship was sailing from the Philippines, heading for the Puget Sound. The captain sighted the recently built Carmanah Point Lighthouse and mistook it for the Cape Flattery Lighthouse. The ocean current had moved the ship considerably far north and when unexpected breakers were heard, the ships anchors were dropped. But it was too late, the Sarah ran aground on the shore of what is now the West Coast Trail. Over the next two days the crew of 18 and the captain's wife and baby managed to get ashore safely with the exception of two crew drowning.

The Becherdass-Ambiadass Shipwreck

The Becherdass Ambiadass Shipwreck -West Coast Trail Graveyard of the PacificBuilt in New Brunswick in 1864 the 1376 ton 3 masted ship the Becherdass-Ambiadass was wrecked on the rocky shore only a half mile from Pachena Point.  This British ship was returning from Shanghai to Moodyville (now North Vancouver) when Cape Beale Lighthouse was sighted.  As she neared Vancouver Island early morning fog blinded her and under full sail collided with the abruptly rocky shore near the 8km mark of the West Coast Trail.  Amazingly no one was seriously hurt, but the ship was wrecked.  The crew used the lifeboats to save themselves.  The next day a local boat carried both the crew and their belongings to Victoria.  In the following weeks the ship disintegrated on the rocks.

The Michigan Shipwreck

The Michigan Shipwreck - West Coast Trail Graveyard of the PacificThe Michigan shipwreck on the West Coast Trail is likely the first one you will see and actually touch, which is incredible since it is well over a century old.  On January 21st, 1893 this 695 ton steam schooner was heading to Puget Sound from San Francisco.  The strong northerly current that prevails in this part of the Pacific and would eventually cause dozens of shipwrecks, caused the Michigan to massively overrun her position.  Instead of sailing into Juan de Fuca Strait, she collided with Vancouver Island in the middle of the night. The 25 people on board managed to get ashore after daylight.  The the seas calmed the crew was able to retrieve a boat from the wreck and was able to get to Neah Bay for assistance.  A ship rescue was attempted, but was not successful. One death resulted from the attempt to hike over the old telegraph trail to Carmanah Point Lighthouse. A testament to how difficult it was then as compared to how relatively easy, the now relatively easy, West Coast Trail.

Boiler from the Michigan Shipwreck

I woke at 8am to pouring rain. I knew it was coming.  Here it was.  Hard rain so characteristic of the West Coast Trail.  I went back to sleep.  It passed, but it took a few hours.  At noon, with the tick, tick, tick of water hitting the tent, I emerged.  I was still alive with the excitement of it all.  With the rain fading, it was getting warmer.  I made my way to the waterfall again and had another swim.  Was this what everyday on the WCT was going to be like?  I wanted to stay another night at this spectacular spot, but decided to push on.  The next overnight stop was Tsusiat Falls.  The amazing falls that are shown on half the photos of the WCT.  I pushed on.  Day one on the West Coast Trail was amazing.

Hike the West Coast Trail

Shipwreck on the West Coast TrailPrologue Shipwreck on the West Coast Trail1: The West Coast Trail Shipwreck on the West Coast Trail2: When to Hike & Fees Shipwreck on the West Coast Trail3: Trailheads Shipwreck on the West Coast Trail4: Getting There  Shipwreck on the West Coast Trail5: Considerations Shipwreck on the West Coast Trail6: Campsites Shipwreck on the West Coast Trail7: Shipwrecks Shipwreck on the West Coast Trail8: Routes

When shipping in and out of Juan de Fuca Strait rapidly increased in the mid 1800's and an alarming and costly number of ships were lost, the need for a inland trail was realized. It would take decades, and many more brutal and costly shipwrecks in the waters leading to
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The West Coast Trail is incredible. Everything about it is amazing. From the wildly, incomprehensibly enormous trees to endless jaw dropping views. And it's tough.  Very tough.  It is a trail that shouldn't exist. Hiking trails always form out of the easiest route worn ...
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The West Coast Trail hiking season is confined to just five months due to the dangerously stormy weather during the winter months. In the winter the days are short, tides are high and heavy rain and strong winds are frequent. Hiking the trail in the summer is tough ...
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There are three entry/exit points for the West Coast Trail, however the midway entry/exit point at Nitinaht Narrows is for hikers only hiking part of the trail. The two main entry points are at Pachena Bay in the north(Bamfield) and Gordon River in the south(Port ...
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There are lots of options to getting to the West Coast Trail. The trail is linear so you have to arrange to get to the trailhead as well as from your exit trailhead. Most West Coast Trail hikers drive to one trailhead then bus to the other and hike back to their car. ...
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The West Coast Trail is a very tough hike. About one out of one hundred hikers don't make it, they need to be rescued. That's why there are so many fees. By the time you are done preparing and registering, you laugh at how hiking got so expensive. Isn't hiking usually ...
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One of the most popular and beautiful campsites along the West Coast Trail is Tsusiat Falls. Tsusiat Falls is one of the main highlights on the trail with its dramatically wide and beautifully picturesque appearance. You will find Tsusiat Falls at the base of an ...
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Just a kilometre past the Darling River campsite you will come to another beach campsite at Orange Juice Creek. Orange Juice Creek is not terribly pretty and gets its name from the intensely, orange juice coloured water that crashes through a tangled morass of ...
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The second, or second to last campsite on the West Coast Trail is at Darling River. Located just 1.6 kilometres(1 mile) from Michigan Creek, the Darling River campsite has an alright, sandy beach and a truly wonderful waterfall. Darling Falls pour into a ...
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Walbran Creek at 53k is home to possibly the best, and most unappreciated campsites on the West Coast Trail. The Walbran Creek campsite encapsulates so much that makes the West Coast Trail truly wonderful. The expansive beach which seems purpose built for ...
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The Revere shipwreck lays at the bottom of Port San Juan between Thrasher Cove and Owen Point. Thrasher Cove is the first or last West Coast Trail campsite you will encounter. She was a large 3 ...
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The Uncle John was a 138 foot, three masted barkentine of 314 tons. Built in Eureka, California in 1881 and wrecked one kilometre east of Tsusiat Falls on the West Coast Trail. She was inbound in ...
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The John Marshall shipwreck is located under the waves just outside the mouth of Camper Bay at the 62 kilometre mark of the West Coast Trail. Owing to the great difficulty and slow progress hikers ...
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The Puritan was a 4 masted schooner of 614 tons sailing inbound from San Francisco in ballast. She was heading for Port Gamble in Washington to pick up a load of lumber when the crew failed to ...
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Just past the 20 kilometre mark of the West Coast Trail you will find an anchor of the Woodside on the beach. The Woodside, an 87 foot long steamer built in Sooke, British Columbia in 1878. Sooke is ...
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Day 5 on the West Coast Trail is a stunning, very difficult and tremendously enjoyable day of hiking. Walbran Creek is gorgeous campsite to wake up to. Your tent will open up to a sweeping view of ...
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